When the first signs of autumn appear, in August, a sudden change of mood overcomes Estonians who have so far been enjoying a carefree summer. Clouds of steam and delicious smells emanate from the kitchens until the late hours; cellars, fridges and larders fill up with jams, preserves and pickles. Late summer inevitably means weekends in the forest, often several hours' drive from home, and a triumphant return with basketfuls of berries and mushrooms.

Nowadays, gathering and conserving the fruits of the forest has retained a mainly ritual significance, though an instinctive desire to face the winter with a full larder is undoubtedly also important. A major motivation is probably the Estonians' strong attachment to the forest as a provider and protector. At times of trouble, people hid themselves there, and it has always offered herbs for healing the sick as well as everyday food. Thus, hunting and fishing - adventure and entertainment for the modern city folk - still provide a significant amount of extra food for country people.